Vicuna Peak

Vicuna Peak (2126 metres) is spectacular granite spire in the Coquihalla Recreation area. The easiest route way to the summit ascends via the NE Ridge from the col between Vicuna and Guanaco Peaks. Vicuna Peak is an enjoyable Class 3 scramble with a few class 4 moves. There is a fixed chain to help with the class 4 section. Of course, it's use is optional.

The Hike

To reach Vicuna Peak, you'll need to drive the Coldwater Forest Service Road to the Zum Peak Recreation Site. Coldwater FSR is rough and somewhat overgrown; however, it is passable with an SUV. For most people, it's best to park at the Zum Peak Recreation site. Then, continue down the very overgrown road. Some people will ride a mountain bike but it's really not that far to the start of the trail leading to Vicuna Peak (see picture below).

From the sign above, the trail ascends through forest. You'll arrive in the sub-alpine.

From there, you'll continue following the trail, side stepping through some muddy areas, toward Vicuna Peak. You'll emerge near the base of the peak. There are some fun granite slabs to play around on.

Continuing to hike around the granite slabs, you'll reach the col between Vicuna and Guanaco Peaks. Many people will choose to scramble Vicuna and Guanaco. I chose not to hike/scramble Guanaco. The scrambling route follows the ridge on the right side of the picture below.

The Scramble

Once you reach the base of the peak, you'll start with some straightforward foot jams that provide a very secure feeling. There are plenty of handholds too. Since it is granite, the rock is very solid. Above this point, you'll arrive at a ledge where you can take a quick break.

As you reach the class 4 crux, the footholds are solid; however, there are very few handholds. There is a fixed line for assistance (just outside view in the picture below).

After the crux, you'll reach another ledge (picture below). For the easiest route, continue up the crest of the ridge to the summit (left side in picture below). I choose to traverse to the right following a fairly thin crack in the rock. The crack is wide enough to fit the toe of my running shoes; however, there aren't any hand holds. You'll need to balance on your toes while leaning gently on your hands. Lean too close to the rock and you'll lose friction. Lean too far way and you'll fall away from the face.

Once at the summit, there are spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. You can see Guanaco Peak in the picture below.

You can see more peaks in the Anderson River group (e.g., Alpaca, Ibex, Steinbok and so forth).

Final Thoughts

Vicuna Peak is an enjoyable class 3/4 scramble with spectacular views of the nearby peaks. Unlike the choss of the Monashee mountains, the granite provides a secure feeling throughout the scramble. After scrambling needle peak and yak peak, it is a logical next step.